In 2014 the grapes of the Marne Valley underwent a
subtle change. Hautvillers Benedictine
Abby, the ancestral home of Dom Perignon, is in the heart of this Champagne
region. It would be a good year, a great vintage; everyone was excited. Richard
Geoffroy, Chef de Cave and creator of Dom Perignon’s finest vintages studied
the slightest bloom on the grapes that would go unnoticed by most and
remembered. This had happened twice before, both times before he was born, but
there were accounts in the Abby’s registers. There had been accounts elsewhere
in France of bread baked with a certain local flour that had caused the same
effect. Geoffroy was not as excited as everyone else. Even today scientists can
only guess why a whole village in a certain week of a certain year went crazy.
Something in the process of growing and baking appeared to produce a natural
hallucinogen, a form of LSD. It couldn’t be proved but that’s what the evidence
seemed to suggest. Geoffroy alone had read the Abby’s records, he alone
surmised what might happen, but the harvest was good, the grapes were gathered,
an excellent vintage forecast and a large profit estimated. When Geoffroy said
they should not produce wine that year he was rudely overruled as succumbing to
some old wives tale. Production went ahead. Sample tastings pronounced the wine
excellent and, being tasted only in small sips, proved to have no ill effects.
The bottles were left to mature and a launch date announced. Demand was high as
expectations grew for this magnificent vintage and on the due date it was
shipped all over the world immediately. The complete stock of 2014 Dom Perignon
sold out in a week. What happened next was only foreseen by one man. Needless
to say Dom Perignon champagne is only drunk by the elite, the wealthiest and
most powerful, leaders in politics, industry, advertising and the media, and
needless to say they didn’t just take a sip.
No comments:
Post a Comment